Post by dat603 on Aug 19, 2010 12:20:47 GMT -5
The Cohos Trail has been on our wish list for several years now. Tom has hiked the southern sections of trail in the White Mountain National Forest but we've always wanted to thru-hike the trail. Therefore on August 1, 2010, we began our hike at the Canadian border and finished the trail on August 13, 2010, in Crawford Notch. We are both experienced bushwhackers (Tom completed the New England 3000 footers in 1980 and the winter New England 3000 footers in 1994 with Diane at his side on many of the most remote peaks) and long distance hikers (we backpacked the Vermont Long Trail in winter in the mid 80's and thru-hiked the AT in 2006). Thru-hiking the Cohos Trail is a challenge not to be underestimated and calls for route-finding, bushwhacking and backpacking skills. It rewards the hiker with the beauty of lake country in the north and spectacular mountains in the south. Tom kept a brief journal describing our 13 day trip which we will share with you here. If anyone has questions about our trip or the trail we would be happy to respond to your inquiries. Email us at dat603@hotmail.com.
Sat, Jul 31, 2010. Driving north from our home in Bartlett, NH, we dropped food caches at Applebrook B&B, South Pond Recreation area, and Dube's Pittstop. After setting up camp at Deer Mountain CG (about 5 miles south of the border), we drove north to the border and hiked the 4th Connecticut Lake where we watched an eagle fly over the pond and did some geocaching. Enjoyed a delicious salmon dinner at Happy Corner Restaurant in the evening.
Sun, Aug 1, 2010. After a cool night (42 deg) a beautiful sunny day marked our first day on the trail. An easy day with Jack Sullivan (Deer Mountain CG Host along with his wife Rose) driving us in our car to the border where we began our hike south on the CT. Jack drove our car back to campground. The CT initially follows an overgrown and wet logging / snowmobile road south pass the west shore of serene 3rd Connecticut Lake. Eventually the logging road become a pleasant dirt road with lovely flowers and mountain views. Nearing route 3 and just south of Deer Mt CG we followed another dirt road up a short rise to the right which quickly became an overgrown logging / snowmobile road to a point across the road from the East Inlet Road where we quit for the day and walked back to Deer Mt CG on route 3. A short day but one which allowed us to accustom ourselves to the rhythm of the trail in the north section. We managed to find a few geocaches along the way.
Mon, Aug 2, 2010. A warmer day. Humid with t-storms by evening. Leaving our car at Deer Mountain CG (with permission from cg hosts), we were on the trail south before 7 am. Much of the trail is on route 3 in this section, but the views of lakes and mountains compensate. We did spot one moose in this section. Cohos trail volunteers have put in a fine new trail that gets you off the road in much of the section between the 2nd and 3rd Connecticut Lakes. The trail took us to a beautiful rapid in this section where we watched a fly fisherman while resting on some ledges overlooking the river. Moose remains scattered across the trail further on caused us to wonder how the animal had met its demise. At the Magalloway Rd we turned west again return to rt 3. Very dusty - especially when a huge logging truck roared by. By afternoon we approached Young's General Store and the Happy Corner Restaurant where we stopped to enjoy a salad and ice tea. At this point the power went out due to a bad accident on route 3 south of Pittsburg. After leaving the restaurant we continued on a spur trail back to the CT and south toward Lake Francis State Park. Stopping briefly to geocache at the covered bridge a mile north of the cg. No hot showers at Lake Francis State Park CG due to the continued power outage. We arrived there about 5 pm. As more trails are developed in this section, the miles will undoubtedly increase. A lean-to or place to camp mid-way mayl become more desirable.
Tue, Aug 3, 2010. Rain all night delayed our morning start until 9. We retraced our tracks north to pick up the CT which crossed the Connecticut River to the east side of Lake Francis, following a dirt road which soon transformed itself into a wet, overgrown snowmobile trail. Stopped for a rest at a lovely open rocky beach on the east shore of the lake in the late morning before continuing to Cedar Stream Road. Later, we hid our packs at the junction of Dead Water Loop Rd and hitched a ride to Dube's Pittstop to pick up our food drop from Jim. On the way back to our packs we crossed the huge Murphy Dam to Cedar Stream Rd. After hiking over a mile up Dead Water Loop Rd and seeing no CT trail markers, we took what we thought was the relocated CT on a spur logging road which soon ended. Obviously we were not on the trail at that point. Using our gps we bushwhacked through overgrown logging roads, bogs, and woods to a farm across the road from Ferguson Rd. Threatening skies and the late hour prompted us to hike a half mile north to Rudy's where we were welcomed by Kathleen Delmonoco owner of Rudy's cabins and cg. We rented a cabin at a very reasonable fee for the night and got in just before another deluge of rain that lasted overnight. Kathleen's father Rudy was a well known and popular guide in this area at one time. She has posted an interesting article about Rudy on the cabin's wall.
Wed, Aug 4, 2010. Awoke to clouds and the sound of loons on Clarksville Pond. We watched the loon parents take turns fishing and caring for their young as we enjoyed breakfast in our lake-side cabin and packed up. Close to 5" of ran had fallen overnight and water was everywhere! About 6:30 we were heading south on the CT, walking through mud and deep puddles. Mist and clouds prevented us from enjoying the views at Weir Tree Farm. We continued south on a high ridge which passed some lovely farm land as it descended, then east to Coleman State Park where the sun came out, and we were welcomed by two friendly, helpful park managers. We enjoyed hot shower, lunch, and found a nearby geocache before continuing on a grassy CT that had been recently mowed making the trail very pleasant to the col between Sugar Hill and Tumble Dick Mtn. After approaching the outskirts of the Balsams xc-ski trails we turned east and started steeply uphill to Mud Pond Ridge and Panorama Lean-to where we spent the night. A recently built lean-to in a wonderful location and in excellent condition. We can only imagine the great sunsets from this point. However, clouds and mist prevented us from seeing much. Upon reading the lean-to log book while preparing supper another t-storm moved through. In the log book, Tom noticed an old bushwhacking buddy from the 1970's - Ray Chaput - had hiked the CT both north and south a few years ago and had made reference to Tom in the log when describing his NH bushwhacking days. The CT passes near or over many peaks that were trailless in the 1970's.
Thu, Aug 5, 2010. A warm, humid, overcast day with cooler, dryer air moving in during the evening. Upper 60's at sunrise. After breakfast we resumed the CT about 8 am. The trail was very wet and boggy. Our feet and boots have been wet for several days now. Slow going. As we approached Dixville Notch we encountered ledges with spectacular views of the Balsams Resort Hotel and the Notch. In addition we were able to find several geocaches in the notch area. With the recent rain, the cascades on both the north and south faces of the notch were awesome and powerful. A steep climb out of the notch brought us to Table Rock where we encountered a vacationing family from MN out for a hike. Pesky black flies dominated the top of the Balsams down-hill ski area where we attempted to stop for lunch but were driven away by their biting. Ski trails from the Table Rock area to the chairlifts used by the CT were very wet. However, the worse was to yet to come when we made our way toward Dixville Peak where the CT follows a snow machine (or atv) track. Huge, deep mud puddles created by the machines bordered by thick spruce and fir trees frequented this section making hiking very challenging. Impossible to stay dry. No view from Dixville Peak due to clouds and mist. A quick descent to Kelsey Notch and on to Baldhead Lean-to which we thought we'd never get to. The trail was a bit rough and steep with blowdown inn sections before reaching the shelter about 7 pm. An old lean-to but a welcome one for tired hikers. We had dinner before collapsing into our sleeping bags for the night.
Fri, Aug 6, 2010. 58 deg. at sunrise. Mist and clouds at sunrise prevented us from the southerly views available at Baldhead Lean-to. A mix of sun and clouds as a cold front pushed in from Canada. The CT was well marked and in good condition as we left the lean-to. Wet going and high grass later as we made our way down to Nash Stream through meadows with outstanding views of surrounding mountains. Eventually we encountered the northern end of the Nash Stream Road which we followed south passing vacation cabins. The high, dangerous level of Nash Stream prevented us from crossing it to the east side of Nash Bog so we continued on Nash Stream Road to the Sugarloaf Mt. Trail where we met a US Fish and Wildlife man and a Plymouth State female grad student doing research on native trout. They took time to describe the interesting work being done to track trout using very small computer chips carefully placed inside the fish so their movements could be monitored. Amazing! After days of wet feet due to all the rain our feet were bothering us a bit. And due to the infrequency of blazes and our inattention to the data sheet we missed a critical turn to cross Nash Stream on a snowmobile / atv bridge. This error added another 3 miles to another long day. We stealth camped near Nash Stream for the night. A pleasant, cool, breezy evening.
Sat, Aug 7, 2010. Rose to a clear, cool (40 deg.) morning. By 6 am we were hiking the CT south on the Nash Stream Rd to the Percy Loop (a well maintained, gradual trail) which took us to the east side of these eye-catching peaks (North and South Percy Peaks) with their ledgy summits. From the col area we made our way carefully down some ledges toward the Jimmy Cole Brook Rd. While taking a short rest in a sunny spot two families of hikers from NJ came by trying to make their way to the Percy Peaks but unsure of where they were. We told them they were on the right trail. The two guys leading seem optimistic about their adventure but their spouses and some of the children seemed anxious about the choice of trails. At this point I was able to use my cell phone to phone Nancy at the Stark Village Inn to make reservations for the night. We got the last room! As we made our way to Percy Road the trail had fewer blazes and blowdown on the trail in places made us think we had possibly missed a turn. We backtracked and confirmed we were still on the CT. By 3:30 we were on Percy Rd and Nancy soon drove up to offer us a ride to the Inn. What relief! We weren't sure if we would have been successful in hitching a ride. A hot shower felt great, and Nancy allowed us to use her kitchen facilities to prepare our evening meal. We socialized with Nancy, her boyfriend Michael, and another family staying at the Inn briefly before retiring for the night. Nice to sleep in a real bed tonight.
Sun, Aug 8, 2010. Rose to a clear, cool, sunny morning. After a hearty breakfast prepared by Nancy, Michael drove us back to where the CT intersects Percy Rd to continue our journey. A lovely sunny day which later degraded to overcast skies and rain. We followed the road to route 110 where we crossed to the south side and back onto a snowmobile trail which took us the South Pond Recreation access road. In late morning we visited with South Pond Recreation area hosts Brad and Karen and their dog Mina while picking up supplies from our food drop there. We left some items which we had not used and anticipated not needing for the next leg of the trip. Passing by the lovely sandy beach and uncrowded South Pond we were soon on the Kilkenny Ridge Trail used by the CT to go from Stark to Jefferson, NH. The trail rose gently to Roger's Ledge which offered a wonderful view south and our first view of the Presidential Mountains. We arrived at Unknown Pond about 5:30 after gaining some elevation. Cool, breezy, and overcast. Low 60's. Only one other tent site was occupied. A quick supper and into the sleeping bags as rain began to fall.
Mon, Aug 9, 2010. After a windy, rainy night we rose about 5:30 am and were on the trail by 6:30. Passing the Horn in light wind, fog, and clouds, we passed over the summit of Cabot and arrived at the cabin by 9 am. We were greeted by a young couple from Buffalo, NY. Caleb and Kelley are English professors and backpacking the trail from Crawford Notch. They planned to hike the trail as far as Stark since they had to be back to college soon to prepare for upcoming fall classes. After a lively conversation comparing notes on hiking in the northeast as well as Arizona (where they come from and where we spend winters at times), we continued on our way. Soon meeting another energetic couple from Quebec enthusiastically hiking the NH 4000 footers. Many feet of elevation gained and lost as we made our way over the Terrace and Weeks Mountains. We bivy camped comfortably on the summit of Middle Weeks after meeting 2 young men with large packs who were hiking from Jefferson to Stark in 4 days. They had spent a rough night bivy camped on an unlevel spot. Another t-storm moved in as we finished supper and crawled into the tent to sleep.
Tue, Aug 10, 2010. Greeted by a hazy sun and 57 deg. as we rose at 5:30 am. Thick clouds below in the valleys burned off during the morning hours as the day became quite warm and humid. By 6:30 am we were on our way south. Some blowdown on the trail before reaching the summit of Waumbec. A very gradual rise. Stopped to geocache on the east peak. Using my cell phone I contacted Joy at Applebrook B&B to inform her that we would stop by later today to pick up our food drop. We met 3 hikers and a dog hiking to Waumbec as we continued on. Stopped to rest in the sun and geocache at the summit of Starr King. By noon we were in Jefferson, enjoying pizza on the porch at the Old Corner Store. Afterwards we got an ice cream across the street before continuing down route 115A to Applebrook B&B where Joy had left our food box in the entryway. After reorganizing our packs with the drop were on our way downhill on 115A and across the Israel River. Wonderful views across farmland to the Presidential Range! Nice views back toward Starr King and Waumbec as well as the Owl and Mt Martha to the south. Unfortunately, a landowner dispute over the trail had resulted in a large detour around the Owl which I have hiked to in the past to enjoy wonderful views. Hopefully the dispute will soon be resolved so that future CT hikers can once again access that peak from the north. We hiked up the Whipple Road and onto the Col Whipple trail which initially was in much better shape then when I had hiked it a few years ago. However, as we approached the RR tracks in Pondicherry we encountered log bridges which sank well below the water surface as we stepped across them. Wet feet and slow going in that stretch. Stopped to enjoy grinders we had purchased earlier while watching an eagle fly over Cherry Pond. Loons were on the lake as well as beaver as a t-storm manifested itself with dramatic clouds over the Presidentials. We were forced to discreetly stealth camp soon as darkness and a lite rain shower overcame us.
Wed, Aug 11, 2010. Fog and 60 deg. greeted us when we rose at 5:15 am but later in the morning sunny conditions prevailed. On the trail by 6 am, we crossed Airport Road and followed a RR bed with rails and ties still intact. A shredding machine had been through and cut the bushes to about 6" to 12" making walking a bit of a challenge. Saw a large cow moose in an adjacent wetland. After a mile we used our gps to determine the junction of the unnamed road with the RR bed. Briars and a nasty overgrown logging area were all that we encountered. No CT blaze or mark at this critical junction was in evidence. Using our gps we very slowly made our way through this rough, wet area (spotting one very large bull moose along with a cow moose) which eventually became a dirt road leading us to Lennon Rd which we followed east to the Cherry Mt trailhead. We rested here and found another geocache before starting up the trail. The trail was in very good condition. After reaching the ridge we followed a foot / snowmobile trail to Cherry Mountain Rd which we followed south to route 302. Spent an hour at the Bretton Woods Station enjoying sandwiches, yogurt and ice cream while talking with a woman hiker who had climbed Eisenhower today. Starting up the Base Station Road we notice an approaching car stop then proceed very slowly. It stopped as it came up to us. 2 women inside were laughing hysterically. They were from the mid-Atlantic states and touring NH. They had never seen a moose and were intent on seeing one during their stay. They thought we with our packs walking alongside the road were one of New Hampshire's moose initially. After we all laughed they left - still searching - while we hiked up the Base Station Road to stealth camp near the Middle Falls of the Ammo for the night as darkness arrived. Another long day of hiking...over 17 miles. We fell asleep listening to water cascading down the falls.
Thu, Aug 12, 2010. At 5:15 am we rose. Clear sky and 60 deg. We crossed the Ammo River and followed the CT up the Bretton Woods XC ski trail to the Mt Clinton Road. By 7:30 am we were ascending the southern Presidentials on one of the nicest White Mountains National Forest trails - the Edmands Path. Rising gradually then more steeply but with excellent footing we were soon above treeline. As we rose above the trees we could see Roger's Ledge and the Horn far to the north where we had been a short time ago. The Crawford Path was crowded with hikers going from hut to hut enjoying the stellar morning. We sat near the junction of the Crawford Path and Eisenhower Trail enjoying the view to the south of the Mount Washington Valley area - our home and not far to go. An easy descent on the Eisenhower Trail and a crossing of the Dry River which was not so dry brought us to the Isolation (west) Trail. This trail was in poor condition with much blowdown we had to crawl over and under. Just after meeting a father/son team we reached the Davis Path and turned south as high clouds moved in obscuring the higher summits. In much better condition, the Davis Path led us south to where we bivy camped comfortably north of Stairs Mountain for the night.
Fri, Aug 13, 2010. Our final day on the CT. A beautiful warm sunny day. We rose at 5:30 am. Clear and 55 deg. On the trail by 6:30 am. We stopped to enjoy the view from the Stairs Mountain lookout, spending time identifying mountains to the east, south, and west, and taking photos. Met several hiking groups ascending Mt Crawford later. Mt Crawford was Tom's final winter NH 3000 footers. At the time Diane and writer/hiker Guy Waterman had been with him to celebrate with punch and cake! Today was much warmer than that cold winter day years ago. At 12 noon we walked across the Saco suspension bridge, stopping to take the obligatory self-photo and repack before hitching a ride home. Several cars passed us before a min-van from Washington, DC, stopped for us. The driver, a man originally from South Africa and now working for the US NIH, had a son who is totally deaf and presently hiking the Appalachian Trail with his dog!! What a challenge!! We were driven right to our front door. Our adventure was over but we had great memories of our trip.
We are indebted to many folks who made our trip possible. Everyone we contacted was helpful and friendly. We would like to specifically express our appreciation to the following people:
Jack at Deer Mountain Campground, north of Pittsburg, NH, for driving us to the border where we started our hike south.
Jim at Dube's Pittstop, Pittsburg, NH, for keeping our food drop for us.
Joy at the Applebrook Bed and Breakfast, Jefferson, NH, for keeping our food drop for us.
Karen & Brad at South Lake Recreation Area, Stark, NH, for keeping our food drop for us.
Kathleen at Rudy's Cabins and CG, Clarksville, NH, for her hospitality.
Martin for picking up a couple of tired hitchhikers and taking us right to our front door.
Michael for driving us back to the trail in Stark, NH.
Nancy at Stark Village Inn for picking us up and her hospitality and a great breakfast at the Inn.
And finally all the CT volunteers who have worked so diligently on the CT and made our trip possible.
Post Note: The Cohos Trail Data Book, compiled by 'Parrot', 'the Wife' and 'Stillwalking' is a very good guide for the trail - especially where the trail makes critical turns. It's inexpensive and anyone planning to hike the trail should order it. The Data book does a good job of supplementing the maps which CT hikers should have as well since they have an abundance of comments. A gps is also a helpful tool on the trail if you don't mind the extra weight. The guidebook has some very interesting background information but we did not refer to it while hiking the trail. Prospective hikers should read the book before hiking the trail. The appendices are useful and you may want to take them with you on the trail. Also, checking online to note any trail updates before setting out is essential. And finally, you should have off-trail route finding experience as well as backpacking trail experience to truly enjoy a thru-hike of the wonderful Cohos Trail.
Comments or questions can be emailed to dat603@hotmail.com
Sat, Jul 31, 2010. Driving north from our home in Bartlett, NH, we dropped food caches at Applebrook B&B, South Pond Recreation area, and Dube's Pittstop. After setting up camp at Deer Mountain CG (about 5 miles south of the border), we drove north to the border and hiked the 4th Connecticut Lake where we watched an eagle fly over the pond and did some geocaching. Enjoyed a delicious salmon dinner at Happy Corner Restaurant in the evening.
Sun, Aug 1, 2010. After a cool night (42 deg) a beautiful sunny day marked our first day on the trail. An easy day with Jack Sullivan (Deer Mountain CG Host along with his wife Rose) driving us in our car to the border where we began our hike south on the CT. Jack drove our car back to campground. The CT initially follows an overgrown and wet logging / snowmobile road south pass the west shore of serene 3rd Connecticut Lake. Eventually the logging road become a pleasant dirt road with lovely flowers and mountain views. Nearing route 3 and just south of Deer Mt CG we followed another dirt road up a short rise to the right which quickly became an overgrown logging / snowmobile road to a point across the road from the East Inlet Road where we quit for the day and walked back to Deer Mt CG on route 3. A short day but one which allowed us to accustom ourselves to the rhythm of the trail in the north section. We managed to find a few geocaches along the way.
Mon, Aug 2, 2010. A warmer day. Humid with t-storms by evening. Leaving our car at Deer Mountain CG (with permission from cg hosts), we were on the trail south before 7 am. Much of the trail is on route 3 in this section, but the views of lakes and mountains compensate. We did spot one moose in this section. Cohos trail volunteers have put in a fine new trail that gets you off the road in much of the section between the 2nd and 3rd Connecticut Lakes. The trail took us to a beautiful rapid in this section where we watched a fly fisherman while resting on some ledges overlooking the river. Moose remains scattered across the trail further on caused us to wonder how the animal had met its demise. At the Magalloway Rd we turned west again return to rt 3. Very dusty - especially when a huge logging truck roared by. By afternoon we approached Young's General Store and the Happy Corner Restaurant where we stopped to enjoy a salad and ice tea. At this point the power went out due to a bad accident on route 3 south of Pittsburg. After leaving the restaurant we continued on a spur trail back to the CT and south toward Lake Francis State Park. Stopping briefly to geocache at the covered bridge a mile north of the cg. No hot showers at Lake Francis State Park CG due to the continued power outage. We arrived there about 5 pm. As more trails are developed in this section, the miles will undoubtedly increase. A lean-to or place to camp mid-way mayl become more desirable.
Tue, Aug 3, 2010. Rain all night delayed our morning start until 9. We retraced our tracks north to pick up the CT which crossed the Connecticut River to the east side of Lake Francis, following a dirt road which soon transformed itself into a wet, overgrown snowmobile trail. Stopped for a rest at a lovely open rocky beach on the east shore of the lake in the late morning before continuing to Cedar Stream Road. Later, we hid our packs at the junction of Dead Water Loop Rd and hitched a ride to Dube's Pittstop to pick up our food drop from Jim. On the way back to our packs we crossed the huge Murphy Dam to Cedar Stream Rd. After hiking over a mile up Dead Water Loop Rd and seeing no CT trail markers, we took what we thought was the relocated CT on a spur logging road which soon ended. Obviously we were not on the trail at that point. Using our gps we bushwhacked through overgrown logging roads, bogs, and woods to a farm across the road from Ferguson Rd. Threatening skies and the late hour prompted us to hike a half mile north to Rudy's where we were welcomed by Kathleen Delmonoco owner of Rudy's cabins and cg. We rented a cabin at a very reasonable fee for the night and got in just before another deluge of rain that lasted overnight. Kathleen's father Rudy was a well known and popular guide in this area at one time. She has posted an interesting article about Rudy on the cabin's wall.
Wed, Aug 4, 2010. Awoke to clouds and the sound of loons on Clarksville Pond. We watched the loon parents take turns fishing and caring for their young as we enjoyed breakfast in our lake-side cabin and packed up. Close to 5" of ran had fallen overnight and water was everywhere! About 6:30 we were heading south on the CT, walking through mud and deep puddles. Mist and clouds prevented us from enjoying the views at Weir Tree Farm. We continued south on a high ridge which passed some lovely farm land as it descended, then east to Coleman State Park where the sun came out, and we were welcomed by two friendly, helpful park managers. We enjoyed hot shower, lunch, and found a nearby geocache before continuing on a grassy CT that had been recently mowed making the trail very pleasant to the col between Sugar Hill and Tumble Dick Mtn. After approaching the outskirts of the Balsams xc-ski trails we turned east and started steeply uphill to Mud Pond Ridge and Panorama Lean-to where we spent the night. A recently built lean-to in a wonderful location and in excellent condition. We can only imagine the great sunsets from this point. However, clouds and mist prevented us from seeing much. Upon reading the lean-to log book while preparing supper another t-storm moved through. In the log book, Tom noticed an old bushwhacking buddy from the 1970's - Ray Chaput - had hiked the CT both north and south a few years ago and had made reference to Tom in the log when describing his NH bushwhacking days. The CT passes near or over many peaks that were trailless in the 1970's.
Thu, Aug 5, 2010. A warm, humid, overcast day with cooler, dryer air moving in during the evening. Upper 60's at sunrise. After breakfast we resumed the CT about 8 am. The trail was very wet and boggy. Our feet and boots have been wet for several days now. Slow going. As we approached Dixville Notch we encountered ledges with spectacular views of the Balsams Resort Hotel and the Notch. In addition we were able to find several geocaches in the notch area. With the recent rain, the cascades on both the north and south faces of the notch were awesome and powerful. A steep climb out of the notch brought us to Table Rock where we encountered a vacationing family from MN out for a hike. Pesky black flies dominated the top of the Balsams down-hill ski area where we attempted to stop for lunch but were driven away by their biting. Ski trails from the Table Rock area to the chairlifts used by the CT were very wet. However, the worse was to yet to come when we made our way toward Dixville Peak where the CT follows a snow machine (or atv) track. Huge, deep mud puddles created by the machines bordered by thick spruce and fir trees frequented this section making hiking very challenging. Impossible to stay dry. No view from Dixville Peak due to clouds and mist. A quick descent to Kelsey Notch and on to Baldhead Lean-to which we thought we'd never get to. The trail was a bit rough and steep with blowdown inn sections before reaching the shelter about 7 pm. An old lean-to but a welcome one for tired hikers. We had dinner before collapsing into our sleeping bags for the night.
Fri, Aug 6, 2010. 58 deg. at sunrise. Mist and clouds at sunrise prevented us from the southerly views available at Baldhead Lean-to. A mix of sun and clouds as a cold front pushed in from Canada. The CT was well marked and in good condition as we left the lean-to. Wet going and high grass later as we made our way down to Nash Stream through meadows with outstanding views of surrounding mountains. Eventually we encountered the northern end of the Nash Stream Road which we followed south passing vacation cabins. The high, dangerous level of Nash Stream prevented us from crossing it to the east side of Nash Bog so we continued on Nash Stream Road to the Sugarloaf Mt. Trail where we met a US Fish and Wildlife man and a Plymouth State female grad student doing research on native trout. They took time to describe the interesting work being done to track trout using very small computer chips carefully placed inside the fish so their movements could be monitored. Amazing! After days of wet feet due to all the rain our feet were bothering us a bit. And due to the infrequency of blazes and our inattention to the data sheet we missed a critical turn to cross Nash Stream on a snowmobile / atv bridge. This error added another 3 miles to another long day. We stealth camped near Nash Stream for the night. A pleasant, cool, breezy evening.
Sat, Aug 7, 2010. Rose to a clear, cool (40 deg.) morning. By 6 am we were hiking the CT south on the Nash Stream Rd to the Percy Loop (a well maintained, gradual trail) which took us to the east side of these eye-catching peaks (North and South Percy Peaks) with their ledgy summits. From the col area we made our way carefully down some ledges toward the Jimmy Cole Brook Rd. While taking a short rest in a sunny spot two families of hikers from NJ came by trying to make their way to the Percy Peaks but unsure of where they were. We told them they were on the right trail. The two guys leading seem optimistic about their adventure but their spouses and some of the children seemed anxious about the choice of trails. At this point I was able to use my cell phone to phone Nancy at the Stark Village Inn to make reservations for the night. We got the last room! As we made our way to Percy Road the trail had fewer blazes and blowdown on the trail in places made us think we had possibly missed a turn. We backtracked and confirmed we were still on the CT. By 3:30 we were on Percy Rd and Nancy soon drove up to offer us a ride to the Inn. What relief! We weren't sure if we would have been successful in hitching a ride. A hot shower felt great, and Nancy allowed us to use her kitchen facilities to prepare our evening meal. We socialized with Nancy, her boyfriend Michael, and another family staying at the Inn briefly before retiring for the night. Nice to sleep in a real bed tonight.
Sun, Aug 8, 2010. Rose to a clear, cool, sunny morning. After a hearty breakfast prepared by Nancy, Michael drove us back to where the CT intersects Percy Rd to continue our journey. A lovely sunny day which later degraded to overcast skies and rain. We followed the road to route 110 where we crossed to the south side and back onto a snowmobile trail which took us the South Pond Recreation access road. In late morning we visited with South Pond Recreation area hosts Brad and Karen and their dog Mina while picking up supplies from our food drop there. We left some items which we had not used and anticipated not needing for the next leg of the trip. Passing by the lovely sandy beach and uncrowded South Pond we were soon on the Kilkenny Ridge Trail used by the CT to go from Stark to Jefferson, NH. The trail rose gently to Roger's Ledge which offered a wonderful view south and our first view of the Presidential Mountains. We arrived at Unknown Pond about 5:30 after gaining some elevation. Cool, breezy, and overcast. Low 60's. Only one other tent site was occupied. A quick supper and into the sleeping bags as rain began to fall.
Mon, Aug 9, 2010. After a windy, rainy night we rose about 5:30 am and were on the trail by 6:30. Passing the Horn in light wind, fog, and clouds, we passed over the summit of Cabot and arrived at the cabin by 9 am. We were greeted by a young couple from Buffalo, NY. Caleb and Kelley are English professors and backpacking the trail from Crawford Notch. They planned to hike the trail as far as Stark since they had to be back to college soon to prepare for upcoming fall classes. After a lively conversation comparing notes on hiking in the northeast as well as Arizona (where they come from and where we spend winters at times), we continued on our way. Soon meeting another energetic couple from Quebec enthusiastically hiking the NH 4000 footers. Many feet of elevation gained and lost as we made our way over the Terrace and Weeks Mountains. We bivy camped comfortably on the summit of Middle Weeks after meeting 2 young men with large packs who were hiking from Jefferson to Stark in 4 days. They had spent a rough night bivy camped on an unlevel spot. Another t-storm moved in as we finished supper and crawled into the tent to sleep.
Tue, Aug 10, 2010. Greeted by a hazy sun and 57 deg. as we rose at 5:30 am. Thick clouds below in the valleys burned off during the morning hours as the day became quite warm and humid. By 6:30 am we were on our way south. Some blowdown on the trail before reaching the summit of Waumbec. A very gradual rise. Stopped to geocache on the east peak. Using my cell phone I contacted Joy at Applebrook B&B to inform her that we would stop by later today to pick up our food drop. We met 3 hikers and a dog hiking to Waumbec as we continued on. Stopped to rest in the sun and geocache at the summit of Starr King. By noon we were in Jefferson, enjoying pizza on the porch at the Old Corner Store. Afterwards we got an ice cream across the street before continuing down route 115A to Applebrook B&B where Joy had left our food box in the entryway. After reorganizing our packs with the drop were on our way downhill on 115A and across the Israel River. Wonderful views across farmland to the Presidential Range! Nice views back toward Starr King and Waumbec as well as the Owl and Mt Martha to the south. Unfortunately, a landowner dispute over the trail had resulted in a large detour around the Owl which I have hiked to in the past to enjoy wonderful views. Hopefully the dispute will soon be resolved so that future CT hikers can once again access that peak from the north. We hiked up the Whipple Road and onto the Col Whipple trail which initially was in much better shape then when I had hiked it a few years ago. However, as we approached the RR tracks in Pondicherry we encountered log bridges which sank well below the water surface as we stepped across them. Wet feet and slow going in that stretch. Stopped to enjoy grinders we had purchased earlier while watching an eagle fly over Cherry Pond. Loons were on the lake as well as beaver as a t-storm manifested itself with dramatic clouds over the Presidentials. We were forced to discreetly stealth camp soon as darkness and a lite rain shower overcame us.
Wed, Aug 11, 2010. Fog and 60 deg. greeted us when we rose at 5:15 am but later in the morning sunny conditions prevailed. On the trail by 6 am, we crossed Airport Road and followed a RR bed with rails and ties still intact. A shredding machine had been through and cut the bushes to about 6" to 12" making walking a bit of a challenge. Saw a large cow moose in an adjacent wetland. After a mile we used our gps to determine the junction of the unnamed road with the RR bed. Briars and a nasty overgrown logging area were all that we encountered. No CT blaze or mark at this critical junction was in evidence. Using our gps we very slowly made our way through this rough, wet area (spotting one very large bull moose along with a cow moose) which eventually became a dirt road leading us to Lennon Rd which we followed east to the Cherry Mt trailhead. We rested here and found another geocache before starting up the trail. The trail was in very good condition. After reaching the ridge we followed a foot / snowmobile trail to Cherry Mountain Rd which we followed south to route 302. Spent an hour at the Bretton Woods Station enjoying sandwiches, yogurt and ice cream while talking with a woman hiker who had climbed Eisenhower today. Starting up the Base Station Road we notice an approaching car stop then proceed very slowly. It stopped as it came up to us. 2 women inside were laughing hysterically. They were from the mid-Atlantic states and touring NH. They had never seen a moose and were intent on seeing one during their stay. They thought we with our packs walking alongside the road were one of New Hampshire's moose initially. After we all laughed they left - still searching - while we hiked up the Base Station Road to stealth camp near the Middle Falls of the Ammo for the night as darkness arrived. Another long day of hiking...over 17 miles. We fell asleep listening to water cascading down the falls.
Thu, Aug 12, 2010. At 5:15 am we rose. Clear sky and 60 deg. We crossed the Ammo River and followed the CT up the Bretton Woods XC ski trail to the Mt Clinton Road. By 7:30 am we were ascending the southern Presidentials on one of the nicest White Mountains National Forest trails - the Edmands Path. Rising gradually then more steeply but with excellent footing we were soon above treeline. As we rose above the trees we could see Roger's Ledge and the Horn far to the north where we had been a short time ago. The Crawford Path was crowded with hikers going from hut to hut enjoying the stellar morning. We sat near the junction of the Crawford Path and Eisenhower Trail enjoying the view to the south of the Mount Washington Valley area - our home and not far to go. An easy descent on the Eisenhower Trail and a crossing of the Dry River which was not so dry brought us to the Isolation (west) Trail. This trail was in poor condition with much blowdown we had to crawl over and under. Just after meeting a father/son team we reached the Davis Path and turned south as high clouds moved in obscuring the higher summits. In much better condition, the Davis Path led us south to where we bivy camped comfortably north of Stairs Mountain for the night.
Fri, Aug 13, 2010. Our final day on the CT. A beautiful warm sunny day. We rose at 5:30 am. Clear and 55 deg. On the trail by 6:30 am. We stopped to enjoy the view from the Stairs Mountain lookout, spending time identifying mountains to the east, south, and west, and taking photos. Met several hiking groups ascending Mt Crawford later. Mt Crawford was Tom's final winter NH 3000 footers. At the time Diane and writer/hiker Guy Waterman had been with him to celebrate with punch and cake! Today was much warmer than that cold winter day years ago. At 12 noon we walked across the Saco suspension bridge, stopping to take the obligatory self-photo and repack before hitching a ride home. Several cars passed us before a min-van from Washington, DC, stopped for us. The driver, a man originally from South Africa and now working for the US NIH, had a son who is totally deaf and presently hiking the Appalachian Trail with his dog!! What a challenge!! We were driven right to our front door. Our adventure was over but we had great memories of our trip.
We are indebted to many folks who made our trip possible. Everyone we contacted was helpful and friendly. We would like to specifically express our appreciation to the following people:
Jack at Deer Mountain Campground, north of Pittsburg, NH, for driving us to the border where we started our hike south.
Jim at Dube's Pittstop, Pittsburg, NH, for keeping our food drop for us.
Joy at the Applebrook Bed and Breakfast, Jefferson, NH, for keeping our food drop for us.
Karen & Brad at South Lake Recreation Area, Stark, NH, for keeping our food drop for us.
Kathleen at Rudy's Cabins and CG, Clarksville, NH, for her hospitality.
Martin for picking up a couple of tired hitchhikers and taking us right to our front door.
Michael for driving us back to the trail in Stark, NH.
Nancy at Stark Village Inn for picking us up and her hospitality and a great breakfast at the Inn.
And finally all the CT volunteers who have worked so diligently on the CT and made our trip possible.
Post Note: The Cohos Trail Data Book, compiled by 'Parrot', 'the Wife' and 'Stillwalking' is a very good guide for the trail - especially where the trail makes critical turns. It's inexpensive and anyone planning to hike the trail should order it. The Data book does a good job of supplementing the maps which CT hikers should have as well since they have an abundance of comments. A gps is also a helpful tool on the trail if you don't mind the extra weight. The guidebook has some very interesting background information but we did not refer to it while hiking the trail. Prospective hikers should read the book before hiking the trail. The appendices are useful and you may want to take them with you on the trail. Also, checking online to note any trail updates before setting out is essential. And finally, you should have off-trail route finding experience as well as backpacking trail experience to truly enjoy a thru-hike of the wonderful Cohos Trail.
Comments or questions can be emailed to dat603@hotmail.com